Coastal Geomorphology-An Introduction
Second Edition
Eric Bird
Principal Fellow in Geomorphology. University of Melbourne, Australia
Copyright C 2008 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester,
West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-0-470-51729-1 (HB) ISBN 978-0-470-51730-7 (PB)
Contents:
Preface to the second edition xi
Acknowledgements xiii
List of Figures xv
List of Tables and Panels xxiii
1 Introduction 01
1.1 Coastal geomorphology 01
1.2 Terminology 02
1.3 Ancient coastlines 03
1.4 Coastline morphology 05
1.5 Coastline length 07
1.6 Coastal evolution 08
1.7 Changing coastlines 09
1.8 Summary 11
2 Coastal processes 13
2.1 Introduction 13
2.2 Waves 13
2.3 Tides 25
2.4 Storm surges 31
2.5 Tsunamis 32
2.6 Currents 34
2.7 Nearshore water circulation 35
2.8 Wind action 36
2.9 Other processes 36
2.10 Modelling coastal processes 36
2.11 Summary 37
3 Land and sea level changes 39
3.1 Introduction 39
3.2 Mean sea level 39
3.3 Causes of sea level change 40
3.4 Measuring changes of level 45
3.5 Correlation and dating of former coastlines 46
3.6 Emerged coastlines 46
3.7 Submerged coastlines 51
3.8 Sea level variations 53
3.9 Late Quaternary sea level changes 53
3.10 Modern sea level changes 58
3.11 Recent changes of land and sea level 62
3.12 Future sea level changes 65
3.13 Summary 66
4 Cliffs 67
4.1 Introduction 67
4.2 Cliff evolution 69
4.3 Cliff morphology 74
4.4 Cliff weathering in cold climates 85
4.5 Cliffs and bluffs on humid tropical coasts 86
4.6 Cliff dissection 87
4.7 Outlines in plan of cliffed coasts 95
4.8 Coastal landslides 98
4.9 Rates of cliff recession 102
4.10 Summary 106
5 Shore platforms 107
5.1 Shore processes 107
5.2 Shore platforms 113
5.3 Plunging cliffs 130
5.4 Summary 132
6 Beaches 133
6.1 Introduction 133
6.2 Beach sediments 134
6.3 Evolution of beaches 137
6.4 Provenance of beach sediments 138
6.5 Weathering of beach material 160
6.6 Beach rock 161
6.7 Nearshore processes 162
6.8 Beach morphology 162
6.9 Beach outlines in plan 164
6.10 Beach outlines in profile 171
6.11 Beach morphodynamics and beach states 179
6.12 Use of models 181
6.13 Beach compartments 182
6.14 Beach budgets 183
6.15 Tracing beach sediment flow 184
6.16 Lateral grading 187
6.17 Prograding beaches 190
6.18 Beach ridges 193
6.19 Cheniers 197
6.20 Beach lobes 198
6.21 Summary 200
7 Beach erosion 201
7.1 Introduction 201
7.2 The multiple causes of beach erosion 217
7.3 Effects of artificial structures on beaches 218
7.4 Beach nourishment 219
7.5 Summary 221
8 Spits, barriers and bars 223
8.1 Introduction 223
8.2 Spits 223
8.3 Tombolos 229
8.4 Cuspate and lobate spits 230
8.5 Cuspate and lobate forelands 234
8.6 Coastal barriers and barrier islands 235
8.7 Intertidal sandflats 242
8.8 Bars and troughs 242
8.9 Sand shoals 245
8.10 Ripples 245
8.11 Sandstone reefs 246
8.12 Summary 246
9 Coastal dunes 247
9.1 Introduction 247
9.2 Foredunes 250
9.3 Backshore cliffing of dunes 252
9.4 Parallel dunes 253
9.5 Blow-outs and parabolic dunes 255
9.6 Transgressive dunes 258
9.7 Cliff-top dunes 261
9.8 Dunes on shingle 261
9.9 Rates of dune movement 262
9.10 Dune calcarenite 263
9.11 Machair 265
9.12 Coastal dunes in the humid tropics 266
9.13 Old and new dunes 267
9.14 Dune sandrock 268
9.15 Dune lakes 268
9.16 Summary 268
10 Intertidal wetlands 271
10.1 Introduction 271
10.2 Intertidal morphology 271
10.3 Sources of intertidal sediments 274
10.4 Mudflats 274
10.5 Intertidal vegetation 276
10.6 Sea-grass beds 276
10.7 Salt marshes 277
10.8 Mangroves 286
10.9 Freshwater swamps 293
10.10 Summary 294
11 Estuaries and lagoons 295
11.1 Introduction 295
11.2 Rias 295
11.3 Fiords 296
11.4 Fiards 298
11.5 Calanques 298
11.6 Sharms and sebkhas 298
11.7 Estuaries 299
11.8 Coastal lagoons 311
11.9 Summary 329
12 Deltas 331
12.1 Introduction 331
12.2 Delta components 331
12.3 Deltaic processes 332
12.4 The Mississippi delta 334
12.5 Delta outlines 337
12.6 Delta evolution 342
12.7 Delta shores 346
12.8 Summary 347
13 Coral and algal reefs 349
13.1 Introduction 349
13.2 Coral reefs 349
13.3 Origin of coral reefs 350
13.4 Rates of growth 351
13.5 Fringing reefs 353
13.6 Barrier reefs 354
13.7 Atolls 357
13.8 Emerged coral reefs 359
13.9 Islands on coral reef platforms 360
13.10 Algal and other biogenic reefs 363
13.11 Summary 364
14 Future coasts 365
14.1 Introduction 365
14.2 Greenhouse effect and sea level rise 365
14.3 General effects of a rising sea level 366
14.4 Effects of a changing climate 369
14.5 Effects on cliffs and shore platforms 369
14.6 Effects on beaches, spits and barriers 372
14.7 Effects on coastal dunes 376
14.8 Effects on intertidal wetlands 376
14.9 Effects on estuaries and lagoons 379
14.10 Effects on deltaic coasts 380
14.11 Effects on coral and algal reefs 381
14.12 Conclusion 385
14.13 Summary 385
References 387
Index 405
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